Nissan 350Z Review (2003-2010)

The 350Z is only a two-seater, which makes it less versatile than the Audi TT. But that car is a bit of an outlier in this class, as most of the 350Z’s rivals only sport two seats, too. What’s more, if it did have two rear seats, they’d be so tiny as to be useless for anything but luggage – which is why the additional storage locker you get instead actually makes a bit more sense.

In addition to this, the Nissan 350Z coupe has a good-sized boot with a wide-opening hatch. But access is spoiled by the strut brace that runs across the boot opening, and rather prevents you from sliding in larger items.

The Roadster model has a boot that’s smaller still, of course, but you still get that extra storage compartment, which makes it a little bit more practical than convertible versions of similar cars.

The 350Z is very, very good to drive. The best cars to buy are those made from 2007 onwards, which gained more power, mostly at the top end of the rev range. This makes them extremely rewarding to drive hard, with the engine spinning freely right up to the 7,500rpm red line, which combines with the big dollop of low-down grunt all 350Zs have to make for a truly exhilarating drive.

Even earlier cars are terrific fun, though; a little less rev-happy, but just as gutsy, and benefiting from the same brilliantly balanced chassis. What’s great about the 350Z is that there’s plenty of grip, but if you want to indulge in lurid tailslides, it’ll allow you to do that too, and in a very predictable way that’s easy to control. That it does all this, yet rides comfortably and cruises well, makes it a particularly good all-rounder.

The Nissan 350Z Roadster weighed 150kg more than the standard car thanks to all the additional bracing it needed to cope with the loss of its roof (not to mention the electric roof mechanism itself), and that extra weight naturally made it a touch less nimble than the coupe. Having said that, this was still an exciting car to drive, and it brought with it one extra big benefit: easier access, in dry weather at least, to that V6’s magnificent exhaust note.

The 350Z was a cheap car for what it was, and you can tell when you climb aboard, because while the interior looks good, it’s made from rather ordinary-feeling materials that don’t wear too well.

On the plus side, by the standards of its time, the 350Z is a well-equipped car; the standard model came with a six-disc CD changer, climate control, xenon headlamps and 18-inch alloy wheels.

Most 350Zs sold in the UK, however, were the higher-spec GT version, and this gained heated, electrically adjustable leather seats, cruise control, and a higher-spec sound system sourced from Bose, which came with a subwoofer.

In 2006, the 350Z had a (very) minor facelift. Cosmetically, it was all but unchanged, but the specification was boosted slightly by the addition of new, bi-xenon headlamps, which were standard on both grades.

Look out for the rare GT4 Edition, too; created in 2005 as part of a tie-up with the Gran Turismo 4 video game, this special edition brought with it an upgraded engine which produced 300hp (and went on to become the standard engine fitted to all 350Zs the following year), and special alloy wheels. It was available either in yellow or black, and only 176 were imported, and that rarity means it today commands a significant premium over and above the standard car.

A big, naturally aspirated engine spells trouble as far as fuel economy is concerned, so it comes as no surprise that a fuel economy figure of no more than around 20-25mpg on average, depending on your driving style and which model you choose (the later, more powerful versions will likely be toward the bottom end of this scale).

Keep in mind, too, that servicing intervals on the 350Z are a little shorter than those of a normal car, at every 9,000 miles, though unless you’re a high-mileage driver, that probably won’t worry you as it’ll need servicing every year anyway.

Servicing costs aren’t too high, either, with most Nissan parts costing as much as or less than those you’ll find on most premium rivals. The 350Z will be much cheaper to run than, say, a Porsche Cayman, for example. What’s more, there are plenty of knowledgeable Japanese car specialists around who’ll be able to look after your 350Z for a reasonable sum while still offering plenty of experience with Nissan performance cars, and lots of good advice.

What’s more, the 350Z is fitted with a metal timing chain, and if the car has been well looked after, this should last its lifetime without needing to be changed. By contrast, most Audi TTs of the same era use a rubber timing belt, which needs changing every few years at rather a significant cost.

On the whole, the 350Z is one of the more reliable cars of its age and type, with a better reputation for longevity and dependability than most of its premium-branded rivals.

An upshot of this is that there are actually relatively few common issues to worry about when checking one over. In fact, the biggest issue of all is rust, which affects the rear arches and the front and rear subframes most of all – to catch these latter rust spots, you’ll need to get underneath the car and check both of them carefully, which might require a ramp or a trolley jack and some axle stands (or if not, at least take a torch with you so you can see them clearly while lying on the ground).

Keep an eye on the oil level, too; the V6 is known to like a drink of the stuff, especially if you’re looking at one of the 300hp cars. And if it sounds like there’s a lot of engine noise, you could be looking at a cracked exhaust.

The 350Z’s at an age at which its suspension will be getting tired, so listen out for knocks from bushes, and have a look at the bush that secures the differential to the body – when it’s worn it eventually disintegrates into a gloopy mess that runs down the diff, so if there are black run marks beneath it, it’ll want replacing.

If there’s a clicking noise from the rear of the car while driving along, however, that isn’t too much of an issue – it just means the driveshaft splines need lubricating, which is a relatively easy DIY job, or can be done quickly and affordably by a specialist.

Check all the electrics work, and check the window glass drops when you open the door (and rises again when you close it); window motors are known to go haywire.